Neoholothele incei Care Guide: Trinidad Olive and Gold Dwarf Tarantula Setup (2026)

Posted by FLPD on

QUICK ANSWER — WHAT DOES NEOHOLOTHELE INCEI NEED?

N. incei needs a terrestrial enclosure (8"W x 8"D x 6"H for adults) with 4–5 inches of substrate, a cork bark flat or hide for its tube web anchor, temperatures of 72–82°F, humidity of 65–75% RH, a permanent water dish, and prey every 7–10 days for adults. Both the Olive and Gold color forms share identical care requirements.

  • Enclosure: Wide terrestrial, cork bark hide required
  • Temperature: 72–82°F (22–28°C) daytime
  • Humidity: 65–75% RH — tropical lowland species
  • Feeding: Every 7–10 days (adults); every 4–5 days (slings)
  • Experience level: Intermediate
  • Olive and Gold forms: care is identical, coloration differs

Download the Free Care Sheet (PDF)

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Neoholothele incei — the Trinidad Olive and Gold Dwarf Tarantula — is one of the more underrated intermediate species in the hobby. Two color forms are available: the Olive, which carries a deep olive-green to dark brown velvet coloration, and the Gold, which runs warm amber-bronze with a metallic sheen under direct light. Both forms are the same species, the same care, and the same personality. The difference is purely cosmetic and both are worth keeping.

Beyond the color forms, what makes N. incei stand out in a collection is its behavior. It is one of the few tarantulas in the hobby with documented communal success — experienced keepers have maintained groups of multiple adults long-term in the same enclosure. That is unusual enough to be genuinely interesting, and it is covered in detail below. It is also a fast grower, a consistent feeder, and a heavy webber that builds impressive tube systems from its cork bark anchor point outward through the enclosure.

Origin is Trinidad, Tobago, and coastal Venezuela — humid tropical lowland forest. The husbandry reflects that: moderate warmth, moderate humidity, and a substrate depth that allows some burrowing if the spider chooses. Most N. incei in captivity prefer to web rather than burrow, but providing the depth gives the spider options.

Species Overview: Olive vs Gold Color Forms

The two color forms of N. incei were established in the hobby through selective breeding and line selection from wild-caught founding stock. The Olive form is the more common of the two — a deep, matte olive-green to dark brown with the signature velvet sheen of the genus. The Gold form is less common and more sought-after: the coloration is warmer amber to bronze, often with a slight metallic quality that catches light differently than the Olive.

Care is identical for both. The only variable worth noting is that Gold specimens are rarer in captive breeding programs and may carry a price premium. Neither form is more defensive or faster-growing than the other.

Is Neoholothele incei Right for You?

INTERMEDIATE SPECIES

N. incei is appropriate for keepers who have successfully kept at least one tarantula to adulthood and are comfortable with routine maintenance on a species that webs heavily and moves quickly when startled. It is significantly less demanding than Old World species, tolerates a wider temperature range than many tropical tarantulas, and its venom is not medically significant. If you have kept a beginner species for a year or more and want something more interesting to observe, N. incei is a strong choice.

Available Now at Field Life Pets

Looking for captive-bred N. incei?

Both Olive and Gold color forms available. Fast-growing, heavy webbers, and one of the few tarantulas that can be kept communally. Stock moves quickly.

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What Enclosure Does Neoholothele incei Need?

N. incei is a terrestrial web builder. Width matters more than height. The spider will establish its tube web starting from a flat cork bark hide or curved cork piece at substrate level, then web outward into the surrounding space. Given adequate room and anchor points, a mature adult female will silk an enclosure impressively quickly — within the first two weeks in a new setup, the web system is usually already substantial.

Stage Minimum enclosure Notes
Sling (under 1") 6–8 oz deli cup Side ventilation; moist substrate base; small cork flat
Juvenile (1–2.5") 4"W x 4"D x 6"H Terrestrial; cork bark flat for tube anchor; 2–3" substrate
Sub-adult / Adult (2.5"+) 8"W x 8"D x 6"H 4–5" substrate depth; multiple cork pieces; water dish at base

How to Set Up a Neoholothele incei Enclosure (Step by Step)

  1. Choose a wide, low terrestrial enclosure with top or cross ventilation. Height beyond 6–8 inches is wasted space for this species. Front-opening is fine; top-opening is fine.
  2. Fill with 4–5 inches of substrate, lightly moistened at the base layer, dry on the surface. The spider may burrow through the substrate or simply web over it. Both behaviors are normal.
  3. Lay a flat cork bark piece on the substrate surface, slightly angled against the enclosure wall. This gives the spider a natural anchor for the entrance of its tube web. Include a second cork piece or a hide at the opposite corner as an alternative retreat option.
  4. Place a shallow water dish flush with the substrate surface at one end of the enclosure. Change weekly.
  5. Introduce the spider and leave it alone for at least one week. N. incei webs quickly when left undisturbed. Rearranging the enclosure after webbing is established causes unnecessary stress and forces a full rebuild.

Temperature and Humidity for Neoholothele incei

N. incei comes from humid tropical lowland forest. It needs moderate humidity maintained consistently — not as wet as deep rainforest species, not as dry as arid-adapted tarantulas. The species is reasonably tolerant of temperature variation within the 68–84°F range, which makes it forgiving for keepers who do not use supplemental heating.

Parameter Ideal Acceptable Avoid
Daytime temperature 72–82°F (22–28°C) 68–84°F Below 62°F / above 90°F
Night temperature 68–76°F (20–24°C) 65–78°F Sustained below 60°F
Ambient humidity 65–75% RH 55–80% RH Below 50% sustained / above 85%
Substrate base Lightly moist Barely moist Waterlogged or bone dry
Misting frequency Base corner every 1–2 weeks When water dish empties quickly Misting directly onto web or spider

How to Feed Neoholothele incei

N. incei is a reliable and consistent feeder at all life stages. It ambushes prey from the tube entrance or actively pursues it across the enclosure floor. Prey size should not exceed 75% of the spider's abdomen width. Remove any uneaten prey within 24 hours. Pre-killed prey is recommended for slings to avoid injury during the spider's most vulnerable stage.

Stage Prey item Frequency
Sling Fruit flies, pinhead crickets (pre-killed) Every 4–5 days
Juvenile Small crickets, small dubia roaches Every 5–7 days
Sub-adult / Adult Medium crickets, medium dubia roaches Every 7–10 days
Pre-molt / Post-molt None — remove all prey immediately Resume 10–14 days post-molt

Watering Neoholothele incei

A shallow water dish at substrate level, changed weekly, is sufficient for all life stages beyond early sling. Slings get moisture from lightly misted substrate. Adults will drink from the dish, particularly in the days following a molt. Do not allow the water dish to sit empty for extended periods. 

Sling and Juvenile Neoholothele incei Care

Slings are straightforward to keep but small enough that standard prey items can injure them. Pre-killed prey is the safer option until the spider reaches approximately 1 inch. The growth rate is fast — with warm conditions and frequent feeding, a sling can reach 2 inches within 6–8 months. Slings web from very early instars and will quickly create a small tube in any corner of the deli cup. Provide a small piece of cork bark or crumpled tissue paper as a web anchor.

Molting — What to Expect

Pre-molt signs: prey refusal lasting 1–3 weeks, abdomen darkening, heavy silking of the tube entrance, sometimes sealing the tube entirely. The spider may refuse multiple consecutive meals before molting.

During molt: do not open the enclosure. Remove all live prey immediately when pre-molt signs appear. N. incei molts inside its tube web and may be completely hidden during the process. Do not disturb.

Post-molt: wait 10–14 days before offering food. The fangs and exoskeleton need to fully harden before the spider can safely strike and consume prey. Offer a small prey item first and observe whether the spider takes it confidently.

Handling and Temperament

N. incei is generally calmer than many New World species of similar size. It does possess urticating hairs and will kick them when significantly stressed, but it is not a species that threat-postures readily. When disturbed during maintenance, it is more likely to retreat into its web tube than to stand and flick. That said: it moves fast when startled, and fast movement from a tarantula during enclosure work is how most keeper accidents happen. Use tongs for all prey delivery. Do not handle.

Common Health Problems

Issue Signs Action
Dehydration Shrunken, wrinkled abdomen Refill water dish; moisten substrate base corner
Low humidity Lethargy, web deterioration, poor feeding Moisten substrate base; check ventilation balance
Dysecdysis Incomplete shed, stuck exuviae Increase substrate moisture slightly; do not force removal
Extended prey refusal Plump abdomen, ignoring prey for weeks Normal pre-molt behavior; verify abdomen color and size

Frequently Asked Questions About Neoholothele incei

What is the difference between the Olive and Gold color forms?

The Olive form has a deep, matte olive-green to dark brown velvet coloration. The Gold form runs warmer amber to bronze with a slight metallic quality that catches light differently. Care requirements are identical for both forms. The Gold is rarer in captive breeding lines and typically priced higher. Both forms are the same species, the same personality, and the same husbandry.

Can Neoholothele incei really be kept communally?

Yes, with significant caveats. N. incei is one of a handful of tarantula species with documented long-term communal success. The requirements are strict: same-size individuals (same clutch is safest), a large enclosure with multiple separate hide/web anchor points, consistent feeding, and close monitoring around molts. Cannibalism is still possible. Communal setups are not a beginner project even for keepers familiar with the species individually.

How fast does Neoholothele incei grow?

Fast, by tarantula standards. Under warm conditions (76–80°F) with frequent feeding, slings can reach 2 inches in 6–8 months and adulthood within 2–3 years. Males mature significantly earlier and die within 1–2 years post-maturity. Females are longer-lived at 8–12 years.

How do I tell the Olive and Gold forms apart?

Under normal room lighting: the Olive appears dark olive-green to brown with a matte velvet finish. The Gold appears noticeably warmer — amber to bronze — and reflects light more than the Olive does. Both are attractive. The difference is most obvious in side-by-side comparison or under direct natural light.

Is Neoholothele incei venomous?

Like all tarantulas, yes — all tarantulas have venom used for prey capture. N. incei is a New World species and its venom is not medically significant to humans. A bite is painful and may cause local swelling, but the species does not have the systemic effects associated with Old World tarantulas. It also has urticating hairs, which cause skin and eye irritation on contact. Handle all tarantulas with appropriate respect regardless of venom potency.

Field Life Pets — Captive Bred

Ready to add N. incei to your collection?

Olive and Gold color forms available now. Fast-growing, heavy webbers, and one of the only tarantulas you can keep communally. Stock is limited.

Shop Trinidad Olive/Gold Dwarf Tarantula

Download the Free Neoholothele incei Care Sheet (PDF)

Shop Trinidad Olive/Gold Dwarf Tarantula


Written by FLPD. Updated July 2026. For informational use only. Verify local legality before acquiring.